DIY Server Rack Plans

Free woodworking plans for an open frame or enclosed 20U Server Rack for home or small office.

I have a few rack mount servers that I use for testing and development. These days home servers are becoming more popular. Everything from storage servers, home theater servers, home automation and more are making their way into people's homes and having a rack mount enclosure helps fit all those servers neatly in one spot.

Every so often I look into purchasing a rack to put them in but even used they're not cheap. A new half height, no frills open rack cabinet (like this Tripp Lite SR4POST25 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack Cabinet) sells for a few hundred dollars. Enclosed racks are around $1,000.

Out of curiosity I wanted to see what it would take to build my own so I designed and priced out a 20U server rack. 20U is more than most people will need for a home server rack but I chose that height because it puts the top at a comfortable position as a standing desk. You can place a monitor, keyboard and mouse hooked up to a KVM switch to have direct console access.

Pricing wasn't too bad. Materials for an enclosed 20U server rack came out to just under $400. For an open rack it was only about $100 including casters. Much cheaper than buying a server enclosure. Here's what I came up with if anyone is interested.
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How To Build Frameless Wall Cabinets

European style frameless upper cabinets are easy to build with the right tools, are affordable and are used for a variety of projects from kitchens, to bathrooms, offices and more. When I first tried to find information on how to build my own cabinets I found it a bit confusing. In case it helps others I'm going to go over what I've learned over the years. In this post you'll find information on frameless upper cabinet construction and instructions on how to build them.

These basic wall cabinets have a very clean, contemporary look but frameless cabinets are versatile. By using nicer doors, adding some crown molding and light rail trim you can achieve a more traditional look.

You can save a lot of money if you build your own frameless cabinets. While building frameless cabinets isn't very difficult it is important that the cuts are accurate and the pieces as well as the assembly is square. Before you go crazy in your kitchen with a sledgehammer and order a large pile of plywood Try to build one small cabinet to make sure you're happy with your results.

What You'll Need

Tools

• Table saw or circular saw and guide for making accurate and square cuts in plywood.
• Combination square
• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Kreg Shelf Pin Drilling Jig
• Rockler Concealed Hinge JIG IT System
• Power drill and 35mm Forstner Bit

Materials

You'll need 2 sides, one top, one bottom, one back, one or more shelves and one or more doors. 

Unlike my other posts, there is no cut list or cut plan because these are general instructions and the size of the cabinet will vary based on your needs. Instead I'll provide information on how to calculate the dimensions of the components you'll need to build your own cabinets to your specifications.

The type of material you choose will depend on where you will be installing the cabinets. In your kitchen you'll want to use nicer material than in your garage.

Material for Cabinet Carcasses

The cabinet box is also called the carcass. The thicker the material you use, the stronger the cabinet will be and the longer you can make your cabinets. 3/4" material is recommended but in some situations 5/8" or 1/2" can also work. Some woodworkers use different thicknesses for different parts of the carcass such as 1/4" backs inserted into a groove with 1/2" nailing strips, or 1/2" for the back and sides and 3/4" for the top and bottom. This is mainly done to save money. If you're only building a few cabinets for yourself you can simplify the process and wind up with stronger cabinets if you just use the same thickness material (3/4") for all the components.

Plywood is better than MDF is better than particle board. If you're using plywood it's important to note that plywood comes in different grades. One grade for the good side and one grade for the back side. A1 is the best appearance grade of plywood you can get. If you want to save some money you can choose to build the carcasses out of a lower appearance grade plywood such as B2 and use the A1 plywood for exposed ends and doors. Some even like to use melamine coated particle board for the carcasses with better plywood for doors and end panels. If you plan on painting your cabinets the grade of the plywood isn't as important. 

For shop cabinets in the basement or garage you might be able to find "shop grade" plywood at your local lumber mill. This plywood would have more defects in the veneer but still have a strong core. Many people even build shop cabinets out of CDX plywood. It's not very pretty but the X in the name indicates the glues used can handle a bit of exposure to weather which could be good in a garage.

If you're going through the trouble of building your own cabinets you're already saving a considerable amount of money and it makes sense to go with plywood in most instances. For the purpose of these instructions I'm going to assume the cabinet will be built with 3/4" plywood.

Material for Cabinet Doors

You can make plain slab doors out of the same material you use for your cabinet carcasses. In our case plywood. This will be the cheapest option and the one I'll be using in this guide because there are too many options and methods to construct cabinet doors to discuss here.

If you're not happy with a plain slab cabinet door a number of companies will make custom doors for you in a variety of styles at reasonable costs.

Step 1: Calculate Cabinet Component Dimensions

Before we begin cutting and assembling our cabinet we first need to determine what size cabinet we need. If you've ever gone to a kitchen showroom you've probably noticed that the semi-custom cabinets they offer come in some standard sizes. Since we're building our cabinets we can choose any custom dimensions we want to suit our needs. There are some limitations however. The material and thickness chosen will decide how wide a cabinet we can build. In most cases with 3/4" plywood about 42" should be the maximum width but narrower cabinets will have more stability.

Standard upper cabinet depth is 12" (including door) when over a counter. Deeper when over a refrigerator and has more support. The 12" upper cabinet depth leaves a 10-1/2" interior depth. Dinner plates are usually 10" in diameter but can up to 12". If you have larger plates, or want to leave room for larger plates in the future, make your cabinets deeper. In our tutorial we'll build a frameless upper cabinet that is 18" W x 30" H x 12-1/2" D. This will leave an 11" interior cabinet depth.

Our cabinet will be made up of 6 pieces of plywood. 2 Sides, a top and bottom, a back and a door. All will be cut from 3/4" plywood. To determine the size of each component we'll use the following formulas.

(For consistency the "height" is also the direction of the grain.)

Cabinet Side Dimensions

There are 2 sides and in most case the dimension runs vertically. The height of the side is the same as our desired cabinet height. Because we're using overlay* doors the width of the side is our desired cabinet depth minus the thickness of the door.  In our case we have:

Side height = 30" (height of cabinet)

Side width = 12-1/2" - 3/4" (depth of cabinet - width of door) = 11-3/4"

We'll need 2 11-3/4" x 30" pieces of 3/4" plywood.

(Overlay doors sit in front of the cabinet. Inset doors sit within the cabinet. For inset doors the width of the sides will be the same as the width of the cabinet.

Cabinet Top/Bottom Dimensions

The top and bottom pieces have the same dimensions. The width of the top/bottom is equal to the depth of the cabinet minus the thickness of the door. The height of the top/bottom is the width of the cabinet minus the thickness of each side.

Top/Bottom height = 18" (cab width) - 2 x 3/4" (side thickness) = 16-1/2"

Top/Bottom width = 12-1/2" (cab depth) - 3/4" (door thickness) = 11-3/4"

We'll need 2 16-1/2" x 11-3/4" pieces of 3/4" plywood.

Cabinet Back Dimensions

The back of our frameless cabinet fits in between both sides and the top and the bottom. To determine the width of the back we need to subtract the thickness of each side piece. To calculate the height we subtract the thickness of the top and bottom pieces.

Back height = 30" (cab height) - 3/4" (top thickness) - 3/4" (bottom thickness) = 28-1/2"

Back width = 18" (cab width) - 2 x 3/4" (side thickness) = 16-1/2"

We'll need 1 28-1/2" x 16-1/2" piece of 3/4" plywood.

Adjustable Shelves Dimensions

Depending on the height and purpose of the wall cabinet you may want to have one or more adjustable shelves. These are peices of 3/4" plywood that rest on shelf pins which are inserted in a series of shelf pin holes inside the cabinet.

The shelf is the width of the inside of the cabinet and extends from the back of the inside to 1/4 inch from the front.

Shelf height = 18" (cab width) - 2 x 3/4" (side thickness) = 16-1/2"

Shelf width = 12-1/2" (cab depth) - 3/4" (door) - 3/4" (back) - 1/4" (space) = 10-3/4"

Cabinet Door Dimensions

Our cabinet only has one door and we are designing the cabinets to be full-overlay. This means that the door sits in front of the cabinet and covers almost all of the cabinet. In reality the door needs a little bit of space around it to prevent it from rubbing against adjacent doors or walls. 

The minimum space with most hinges is 1/16" so we need to subtract 1/8" (2 x 1/8") from each dimension. That will also give us a nice 1/8" spacing between doors from other cabinets too. 

Door height = 30" (cab height) - 1/8" = 29-7/8"

Door width = 18" (cab width) - 1/8" = 17-7/8"

If we were building a wider cabinet that required 2 doors we would still subtract 1/8" for the height but the width of each door would be (CabHeight - 1/4")/2. There would be a 1/8" space between the two doors and 1/16" space around the perimeter.

Now that we know what size pieces of plywood we need we can begin assembly.

Step 2: Assemble Sides, Top and Bottom

Should you use glue? Pocket hole joinery is pretty strong but glueing the joints in addition to screwing will give you a stronger more rigid cabinet. If you do decide to use glue, first assemble the cabinet without glue to make sure everything fits and lines up well. Then disassemble and reassemble with glue.

Edgebanding: Apply edgebanding to the edge of each of the 4 pieces that will be on the front of the cabinet.

Start by drilling pocket holes in the Top and Bottom pieces as shown and attach the Top to one of the side pieces.

Now attach the bottom to the side. Make sure the pocket holes are on the outside of the cabinet.

Attach the last remaining side, making sure everything is aligned properly and square.

Step 3: Cabinet Back

Double check to make sure the back of the cabinet is square and make sure it fits inside the back of the cabinet. If not, make adjustments to the back.

If everything fits together properly, is the right size and is square, disassemble the cabinet and repeat Step 2 above, this time with glue before inserting the back.

Drill pocket hole screws around the perimeter of the back and attach it to the rest of the cabinet as shown using glue.

Because we're using pocket screws we've built this entire cabinet without a single clamp. Normally a lot of long, expensive bar clamps are used when building cabinets or other furniture to keep the cabinet in place while the glue dries. One of the benefits of using pocket hole joinery is the screws act like clamps to hold everything together while the glue dries.

Step 4: Drill Shelf Pin Holes

Remove the fences from your Kreg Shelf Pin Jig and place it at the bottom of the cabinet as shown. The short side should be flush with the front of the cabinet. This will position the holes 37mm away from the front.

Use the second and third holes from the bottom to drill pilot holes for the hinge mounting plate.

Slide the shelf pin jig up to the top of the cabinet, keeping it flush with the front of the cabinet and drill holes for the top hinge mounting plate in the 2nd and 3rd holes from the top as shown. 

Now place the indexing pin in the bottom hole of the jig, slide the jig down to insert the indexing pin in the 1st Shelf Pin Hole drilled previously and continue your way up the side of the cabinet drilling shelf pin holes. Stop before you get to the pilot holes for the top hinge mounting plate.

Flip the shelf pin jig around and place it in the back corner of the cabinet so the short end of the jig is closest to the back as shown. Drill the 1st shelf pin hole in the last hole from the bottom. (We don't need pilot holes for the hinge in the back.)Then continue drilling the remaining shelf pin holes along the back using the indexing pin.

Repeat this step on the other side of the cabinet.

Step 5: Mark Hinge Bore Locations

On the back, hinge side of the door, mark 2 lines 3-3/16" from the top and bottom of the door. This is the center-line for the hinge bore.

Follow the instructions that came with your hinge boring jig (such as the Rockler Jig It Concealed Hinge Jig) to drill the 35mm bores for the cup end of the hinge. 

Finally attach and adjust your hinges so the door has an even overlay all the way around the cabinet.

Insert some shelf pins, and your shelf and the cabinet is done. Paint and prime, or stain and finish.

Better Box Fan Air Purifier

A better more efficient and odor eliminating homemade air purifier than just taping a 20x20x1 filter to a box fan. Sometimes you need to help clear the air in a dirty environment but don't want to use an expensive air purifier such as in a room after renovating and painting. Here's a cheap and easy way to build one.

Air purifiers can be expensive and you've probably seen articles recommending to just put a 20" x 20" x 1" furnace filter on a cheap 20" box fan and POOF! instant cleaner air for not a lot of money. It really does clean the air pretty cheap.

There's a problem with this though. These fans weren't designed to be run with a filter. The filter will restrict air flow which will put a higher strain on the motor causing it to use more electricity and in worse cases could be a fire hazard. The higher the MERV rating (cleaning efficiency) of the filter the more stress it will put on the fan.

Don't worry! You can still have your cheap air purifier as long as the filter area is increased to decrease the effect of air resistance. Instead of using one 20x20x1 filter we'll use two 20x25x1 filters which increases the filter surface area over 250%. It's a little more expensive because you're using two filters instead of one but the increased filter surface area also helps the filter last longer before it gets clogged up and we're saving on energy use compared to a single filter.

I can't take credit for the design, I found it via Marshall Hansen Design but I'm using different filters.

I recently remodeled my basement and there's a lot of dust (including drywall dust and sawdust) and fumes from paint, cleaners and other building materials. It's an underground basement and mold has to always be a conern too. Because part of the space will be my home theater in the future I plan to get a more expensive air purifier that's smaller and quieter such as this Fellowes Quiet Air Purifier AP-300PH with True HEPA Filter because it has great reviews, is reasonably priced and the replacement filters aren't that expensive or a Sharp Plasmacluster True HEPA Air Purifier or Blueair HepaSilent Air-Purification System if I find some extra Benjamins in the couch cushions. But I don't want to put that in the dusty environment right away because I'll have to replace the more expensive filters fairly quickly because the air is so bad. I also don't want to spend the money right now but I do want cleaner air now.

So I decided to get things going with a homemade air purifier that has filters that not only clean the air of particulates but also reduce VOCs and odors. Even after I purchase an air purifier I'll still have an air purifier I can use for other purposes like when I'm painting or cutting wood.

Also, don't forget to add more plants to your home. They're natures air purifiers. Not only do they convert carbon dioxide to oxygen but houseplants filter toxins and emit negative ions too!

What You'll Need

Materials

• Filtrete Home Odor Reduction Filter, 20-Inch by 25-Inch by 1-Inch, 4-Pack (only using 2 at a time)
• 20" Box Fan
• Cardboard (from the package the filters came in) or oak tag
• Duct Tape or Clear Cellophane Tape
• Optional  Plug-in Timer so the fan isn't running constantly without manual intervention.

Tools

• A pair of scissors or utility knife

Quick Info About Filters

The nice thing about this box fan filter setup is you can use any filters you want. If you are only concerned about large particles generated from something like cutting wood, you can use cheaper, lower MERV rated filters. If you're worried about finer particles from allergens such as mold, you can use a higher MERV rated filter. To understand more about what the MERV ratings mean have a look at Table 2 on this EPA article on residential air.

I chose to go with the Filtrete Home Odor Reduction Filters which are a new type of filter from Filtrete. They contain a lot of activated carbon to help filter out odors and VOCs.  They are rated MERV 11 and are equivalent to their 1000 MPR furnace filters. They should do a good job with even the fine drywall dust and the activated carbon will help a lot with odors. I bought a 4 pack for around $57 which gives me 2 sets of filters.

Filtrete Odor Reducing Air Filters

The filtering power of these Filtrete Odor Reducing filters isn't listed on Filtrete's website or on Amazon but I contacted them and found out that these filters have a MERV 11 rating and filter 90% of particles between 1-10 microns which makes them more efficient than the Filtrete Micro Allergen Reduction Filters I've been using in my air conditioning for the past few years. Plus Filtrete packs over 180 grams of activated carbon to help reduce odors.

After I go through both sets of carbon filters I'm probably going to switch to the Filtrete Elite Allergen Reduction Filter which does a much better job of filtering small particles. If odors are a problem I'll get some Cut-to-fit Carbon Prefilters and tape them over top of the Filtrete filters.

Okay, enough of the why, now for the how!

Step 1: Unbox The Filters

You're thinking "OMG! He's actually describing how to open a cardboard box?!?!?!" The best deal I found for these filters were on Amazon and with my Prime membership (or supersaver shipping) the shipping is free. Plus the packing box is going to be part of the filter so we need to keep in intact.

The box is sealed very well. Not only is it taped but the seams are also glued together. To get the filters out of the box I cut the top where it's perforated with a utility knife as shown.

Be careful not to cut too deep and damage the filters. Keep the box someplace safe to the side while we continue. 

Step 2: Hinge Filters

Start by taking 2 of the filters out of their plastic wrappers and lay them one on top of the other with the air flow arrows pointing towards each other. With the Odor Reducing Fitlers this means the black, carbon sides will be facing each other.

With the filters lined up, tape one of the short (20") edges of the filters to create a hinge between the two filters as shown.

I decided to go with white duck tape so it looks a little nicer but it makes it hard to see in the photos against the white cardboard filter frame.

Step 3: Tape Filters To Fan

Lay the box fan face down on a flat surface to mount the filters to the back making sure the bottom of the filters are about flush with the bottom of the fan and do not extend past the bottom.

Use a strip of duck tape to secure each side to the side of the fan.

Step 4: Cut and Attach the Cardboard

Cut out one of the large sides of from the cardboard shipping box, place it over the top of the of the filters and secure it with a strip of tape to the top of the fan. Position it so that it's pretty even over both filters but it doesn't have to be perfect.

Using a pencil, trace around the filters (while pressing down the cardboard so nothing moves) to mark where the cardboard needs to be cut.

Lift the cardboard up (the front piece of tape acts like a hinge) and cut along the lines to trim the sides. By the way, I really like these Fiskars Cuts+More 5-in-1 Multi-Purpose Scissors.

Repeat the process for the bottom cardboard. The other large piece from the box is seamed but it's taped and glued and very stiff so it shouldn't be an issue but you can run a strip of duck tape over the seem if it makes you feel better.

Also keep in mind that the bottom of the fan has feet. I positioned the cardboard underneath the feet and then pulled the feet out to tape.

After taping up the sides of the bottom cover to the filters, I added an extra strip of duck tape all the way around where the filters/cardboard meets the fan for added support. The rounded corners of the fan means there might still be an air gap there so check them and add extra duck tape if necessary. On the bottom there are also some holes, duck tape over those as well. Finally, replace the feet.

Step 5: Seal The Back

Where the hinged filters meet the cardboard in the back, add another strip of duck tape for support and to seal any gaps.

Give another look around the seams to make sure there aren't any gaps. If you find any, tape them up.

When using the fan, I always make sure that the cord isn't underneath the cardboard and instead is under the metal fan chassis, just in case something goes wrong and the cord overheats. Can never be too safe.

Replacing Filters

When it's time to replace filters, use a utility knife to cut the filters free but leave the cardboard in place. Then just hinge and attach the new filters. 

Easy Small Closet Organizer Plans

Free woodworking plans for a reach in closet organizer that provides double hang, long hang, shoe and sweater shelves for a small closet.

My previous small closet organizer design provided a lot of storage for a narrow closet but it may be a little too complex for some to build. This new design is easier and cheaper to build. If you use MDF you can organize your closet for around $50. It doesn't provide as much shelf storage but it still has plenty of double hang as well as long hanging space and shelves for shoes and sweaters. With a closet this small you're going to need a dresser to store folded clothes anyway so that much shelving isn't as important.

If your current closet only has a typical single rod and single shelf you can see how much space gets wasted. With a little bit of wood and a few hours of time you can dramatically increase the space utilization of your closet. If you've been dealing with a small  3'-4' closet you know how important it is to squeeze as much extra storage as possible.

Good shoes are expensive and just tossing them on your closet floor increases the likelihood they get damaged. Shoe shelves help protect the investment you've made in your shoes.

Providing space for long garments is also important and this organizer allows you room to hang up some of those long dresses or coats so you don't have to run to another room for them.

The Right Hangers Save Space

I've designed the storage unit so that the interior shelves are 14" wide. That will hold folded clothing comfortably as well as 2 pairs of womens shoes side by side or one pair of mens shoes on each shelf. If you want less shelving space and more hanging space you can choose to make the shelving unit narrower (or wider for more shelvnig less hanging).

You can customize the dimensions of these plans to better suit your needs just keep in mind these general guidelines. The shelving unit needs to be 42" tall to be able to hold the double hanging rod. Women's shoes generally need about 7" of width, mens shoes 9" and sweaters and other folded clothing 12". Every body is different so measure how much space your clothes take and see if you need to customize the plan to get more efficient use.

What You'll Need

Materials

• (2) 2' x 4' Sheets of 3/4" MDF or better yet Formaldehyde free PureBond Maple Plywood
• (1) 6' 1x4 board
• (1) 6' 1x2 Board
• 1/4" Nickel Shelf Pins
• Screws
• Primer and Paint

Tools

• Circular saw with guide or table saw
• Jig Saw
• Kreg Pocket Hole Jig
• Kreg Shelf Pin Drilling Jig (Optional but recommended)
• Drill
• Hammer
• Prybar
• Level
• Measuring Tape
• Pencil

Cut List

• (5) ~12" x 14" Shelves 3/4" Plywood
• (2) ~12" x 9" Shoe Shelves 3/4" Plywood
• (2) ~12" x 42" Shelving Unit Sides 3/4" Plywood (See Cut Plan for exact shape)
• (1) 24" Rod Support 1x4 Board (or whatever the depth of your closet is)
• (2) 14" Stretchers  1x4 Board
• (2) 18" Shoe Shelf Supports 1x2 Board 

Cut Plan

3/4" Plywood

The first quarter sheet of 3/4" plywood will be for the shelves. You may want to alter the number and width of the shoe shelves depending on your design. The depth will be slightly less than 12" because of the kerf of the saw. Do your best to cut it as evenly down the middle as possible.

The second sheet is where we'll cut the sides for the shelving unit. To be able to limit the amount of plywood necessary the cuts aren't simple straight cuts. Again, the depth at the middle will be a little less than 12" due to the saw kerf. It's probably best to cut this out with a jig saw.

Boards

1x4: Two lengths of 1x4 need to be cut to the same width as the shelves, in our case 14" and one length that is determined by the depth of your closet for the lower rod support on the side wall.

1x2: One shoe support needs to be cut from 1x2 material for each side shoe shelf. The support needs to be long enough to reach from the back corner of the closet to at least the first side wall stud so that it is screwed securely at each end.

Step 1: Cut Lumber and Finishing

To minimize the time that the closet is out of service we're going to build much of the closet organizer before installing it. This includes finishing the wood so that it's dry when it's installation time. If you don't have a lot of space to lay all the plywood out flat to paint, you might find it easier to paint after you've assembled the shelving unit or just paint everything after installing but you'll have to wait until it dries before using the closet.

Double check your closet measurements and make any modification you need to the cut plan if you choose to customize the size based on your needs.

So that we can get 2 sides out of one 2' x 4' sheet of plywood they're not cut straight. Start off by cutting the board down to 42" in length. If you're comfortable making plunge cuts with a circular saw it's the best way to cut the horizontal cuts. The vertical cuts and rounded corners are best cut with a jig saw. You can also use a jig saw to make the entire cut just take your time and use a straightedge to get the cuts as straight as possible on the long stretches.

You may also want to increase the 4" to 6" or so for a little extra flexibility in positioning the lower rod.

Once you have the 2 sides cut out, a notch will need to be cut out at the back bottom of each side to fit around your baseboards.

Once everything is cut, prime and apply two coats of water based paint. Let everything dry at least 2 days before continuing. Let the paint cure for at least a week (more if weather is humid) before placing items on the painted surfaces.

Step 2: Attach Top to Side

The shelving unit consists of 2 sides, 2 stretchers and 2 fixed shelves. We're going to begin constructing it by attaching the fixed top to one side using pocket hole screws from underneath.

Note that the back of the top is flush with the back of the side and the notch cut out in the back/bottom of the side for the baseboard so it will fit close up against the wall. The front of the top does not extend all the way to the front of the shelving side.

Step 3: Attach Bottom Shelf To Side

Next we'll attach the bottom to the side. The shelving unit needs 2 fixed shelves to make it sturdy. The location of the top shelf needs to be at the top but you have some flexibility when positioning the bottom shelf.

I've planned for the bottom of the bottom shelf to be 12-1/2" from the bottom of the side but depending how big the items you plan to store in that area are, you might want to increase or decrease it. For example, if you want to store boots you may want to increase it.

Make sure the side is square to the front of the side and attach it using pocket hole screws as you did the top.

Step 4: Attach Stretchers To Side

Two stretchers cut from 1x4 boards are used to provide a way to attach the shelving unit to the wall as well as provide extra strength. Using pocket screws attach them to the side and fixed shelves as shown.

The bottom stretcher needs to clear the baseboard notch. If you want the shelf lower, mount the stretcher above the bottom shelf instead of below it.

Step 6: Attach Other Side

Finally we'll attach the other side of the shelving unit using the previously drilled pocket holes in the fixed shelves and stretchers. It's important that everything gets screwed together square.

Step 7: Drill Shelf Pin Holes

With the shelving unit completed we can now drill 2 rows of shelf pin holes on each side of the shelving unit. This is much easier to do with a jig like the Kreg Shelf Pin Drilling Jig.

For each set of holes use the same reference point. For example start all sets of holes by resting the bottom of the jig against the bottom shelf.

If you don't have a pocket hole jig you can either screw the shelves in directly using pocket hole scres or you can manually mark and drill the holes for the shelf pins. 1-1/4" spacing 2" from the front and back should do it.

Step 8: Move Existing Rod and Shelf

With the shelving unit complete and the rest of the components primed and painted it's time to start preparing the closet. To save some money we're going to reuse the existing rod and shelf. A typical closet has it's shelf installed at around 66" above the floor. 

To accommodate a double hang space the shelf and rod are going to need to be moved further up so that the bottom of the top shelf is at 84" above the floor.

Typically the closet will have 1x4 boards installed at the 66" mark on three walls that will support the shelf and rod. Try and determine how the boards are attached to the wall. They're probably just nailed in but sometimes they'll be screwed in.

Start by trying to remove the top shelf. Run a utility knife around the edges where the shelf meets the walls and 1x4s to break any paint that might be helping keep them together. Use a prybar to lift the top shelf off. If it's not coming up easily check for any screws and unscrew them.

Next the closet rod should be easy to lift off. 

Finally start removing the 1x4 support boards. We want to reuse all these pieces so take your time and try to avoid breaking them.

Use a level to draw a line as a guide to reinstall the existing closet rod and shelf. The tops of the support boards need to be at 84". To make installing easier draw your level reference line at 84" minus the width of board. Your boards may vary but if they're 1x4's they'll be 3-1/2" wide. So draw a line at 80-1/2" above the highest point on the floor.

Now reinstall the support boards into the closet lining up the bottom of the boards with the reference line. That should put the top of the boards at 84".

Place the rod back in and then attach the shelf.

There will be some holes in your walls and mismatched paint so fill in any holes with spackle, and sand any paint edges. When the spackle dries, sand it smooth then prime and paint the entire closet. For a closet, water based low VOC paint like Benjamin Moore's Aura is a good idea so that your clothes don't wind up smelling like paint.

Step 9: Install Shoe Shelf Supports

Before installing the shelving unit it's a good idea to install the wall supports for the side shoe shelves now that there's plenty of room to work. Typically, shoe shelves are installed 7" apart but you can change that to suit your needs. Keep in mind that the shoe shelves will reduce the height of the long hang area. If you have especially long garments to hang you might want to limit the number of shelves you're installing. If you use special pants hangers on the lower bar of the double hang section there should be sufficient room for shoes underneath your pants if extra shoe storage is important.

The shoe shelf supports are cut from the 1x2 boards. Make sure you cut them long enough so that they can be attached to at least 2 studs near the ends of the support.

Draw two level lines on the side wall, one 7" up and the other 14-3/4" up from the floor. (Or more or less depending on how high your shoes are.) Use these lines as a guide to align the tops of the 1x2 boards and drill or nail them into the studs on the side wall.

Step 10: Install Shelving Unit

Position the completed shelving unit against the back wall. It's position in relation to the sidewalls will determine how much extra hanging space you get via the double hang section as well as how much long hanging section you have. In this design I chose to put the shelving unit 9" from the left side wall. That will provide 9" of long hang which is enough to hold 4-6 long hanging items. If you need more or less you can position the unit as you see fit. I think it's a good idea for all closets to have at least some long hang area.

The position of the shelving unit will also determine the length of the extra shoe shelves on the left. Since you should have cut out the shoe shelves before this point you can rest one of the shoe shelves on the shoe shelf support and use it to determine where to position the shelving unit.

Once you have the shelving unit where you want it, make sure it's level and plumb then secure it to the wall by screwing it into studs through the back stretchers. 

Step 11: Install Lower Rod Support

The lower rod support is a 1x4 board that is cut to be as long as the depth of the closet. Screw or nail it into studs on the right wall so that the top of the support is 42" above the floor. You can also draw a level line from the top of the shelving unit to determine where to position the support. Make sure it is installed level.

With the rod support in place you can now install the closet rod. Directions will depend on what rod you use but it's important that the top-center of the rod is about 12" away from the back wall and about 1-1/2" down from the top of the shelving unit top and that the rod is installed level.

Step 12: Install Shoe Shelves

To install the shoe shelves, pocket holes will be drilled on the underside of the right side to attach to the shelving unit. On the wall side screws will be drilled from the top down into the wall supports. Drill pilot holes and countersinks so the screws are flush with the top or you can simply nail the shelves in place. Pilot holes are a good idea to prevent splitting the wood.

Step 13: Install Adjustable Shelves

Push the shelf pins into the appropriate holes depending on how you'd like to space the shelves in the shelving unit. Then place the shelves on top of the pins. Once the paint dries you can fill up your closet again.

If you'd like to add a drawer or two see my instructions on how to build drawer boxes.